Day 2 and 3 -- Indian Ocean and Giant Tortoise

Day Two, Open Water and Cousine Island
S04 10’ 90”  E55 30’ 90”

On day two we took a significant journey to Cousine Island.

The Seychelle Islands off the coast of Africa.

Cousine Island north of Mahe Island in the Seychelle Islands.

To travel from the west side of Mahe Island to Cousine Island was approximately 20Nmiles of open water – the Indian Ocean.

We lifted the anchor at 9:30; cut the engines and sailed at 10:05. We arrived in Cousine at 12:35.  We had 4 to 6 foot swells and wind almost the entire trip.

Our Captain at the helm.

Getting ready to head out.

KT ready to sail.

DT and KT had a rough crossing.  I think everyone except our Captain struggled a bit.

NS watching from the front of the boat.

Boswain Hubby D, Purser DT and our Captain.

DT hoisting the sails.

Day one in the First Mate's (ES) log book.

First Mate ES making his notes.

I was petrified most of the time when we were sailing in the open water of the Indian Ocean.   I mean REALLY, REALLY scared.

I kept asking SW (the Captain) if everything was okay, and he kept telling me stories of other trips where the swells were much higher and the conditions much harder.  He assured me we were in great condition.

I could not watch the front of the boat because after we crested a wave it looked like we were going straight down into the water.

I am such a whimp.

ES and NS were very seasoned sailors. They never flinched. Although NS came home with a nasty bruise on her shoulder.

When we reached Counsine Island, it was stunning and made the rough journey worth it.

First siting.

DW at the front of the boat with Cousine ahead.

The winds were not calm enough and visibility of the water not good enough for great snorkeling but we did go for a dip in the refreshing water after we arrived at Cousine.

Captain SW suggested that we motor sail around Praslin Island to the Anse Lazio beach. We would anchor for the rest of the day and spend the night there. We thought that was a great idea.

S04 18’ 26”  E55 44’ 05”
Anse Lazio – Praslin Island

With stunning white sand beaches and lush tropical forests covering the hills, Praslin Island and Anse Lazio beach are a delight.

Our second sunset.

Despite being the second biggest island in the Seychelles Praslin has a fraction of the population, inhabited by a mere 6,500 people. It is sleepy, laid back and far less developed than neighboring Mahe, yet still large enough to explore when you tire of your nearest beach.

The beaches on Praslin stand out, with famous names like Anse Lazio and Anse Geogette frequently making top ten lists of best beaches and most beautiful destinations worldwide, and with good reason. On Praslin you can also discover the amazing Coco De Mer, an exotic plant that lead to the belief the Seychelles were the true Garden of Eden.

We anchored just off a beautiful beach, Anse Lazio.

Anse Lazio, possibly the most beautiful beach you will set eyes upon. With half a mile of perfect, fine white sands and gorgeous turquoise waters that are so clear you can watch the fish swim around you, it's no surprise Anse Lazio is frequently called 'the best beach in the world' with views that take your breath away.

There's no doubt that Anse Lazio deserves its reputation - it really was a spectacular sight

Four at a time, we all traveled ashore in the dinghy. The beach was soft sand with granite boulders. We were hoping to find a restaurant but instead found HONESTY BAR.

I had read about the Honesty Bar prior to our visit.

Basically, you help yourself to the drinks and are trusted to leave the correct payment in a box on the bar. It's all very laid back. And trusting. Just as it should be.

The location is excellent. It is perched on a hillside overlooking the beach.

This was the view of the bay from the table where we enjoyed a beer in the Honesty Bar.

Beers and rum for the crew.

A wood and corrugated iron canopy shades a handful of tables on a sandy floor. 

Behind the bar is a large fridge which is filled with water, soft drinks, beer, wine and spirits.

Bartender - bring me a beer!

Books at the bar with comments from visitors world wide.

The owner stopped by while we were there. He is a native Seychellian born in Victoria. 

As we drank our beers under the rainforest canopy looking out on the powdery sand with the turquoise Indian Ocean beyond, I could swear I was on the set of movie South Pacific.

The beach was covered with granite boulders so we stopped for a photo opportunity on the way back to our dingy.

DT and KT were feeling much better.

The local restaurants were closed so off we went back to the boat for another dinner on board. The trip ashore was wonderful after the rough crossing.

Day Three, Trip to Curieuse Marine National Park
S04 17’ 20”  E55 43’ 20”

The next morning we set sail early so we could arrive at Curieuse Island early and have plenty of time to tour the island.

Curieuse is one of the Inner Islands Group of the Seychelles Islands. It is 2.86 square kilometres in area and is located north-west of Praslin Island, which is the second largest island in the Seychelles. Curieuse is a bio-reserve that is managed by the Marine Parks Authority of the Seychelles Centre for Marine Technology.

Day three was a very busy day and filled with fantastic photo opportunities.

Curieuse also has a very interesting history.

Because of the red colored soil on this rugged island, it was named the Red Island. The name was changed to La Curieuse by the French in 1768. 

The huge giant tortoise population was totally destroyed with the arrival of Europeans. In 1771, thinking it would make harvesting the Coco de Mer nuts easier, sailors set fire to the island. This killed off most of the plants and the remnants of the burned area is still seen today more than 240 years later.

In 1833, the island was used as a leper colony and remained so until 1965. The colony was called Anse St. Joseph and the doctor’s residence, which dates from the 1870s, is a museum and educational center today.



There are also more than 500 tortoises walking around the island and eight different species of mangrove trees.

There are giant tortoise on the island that can only be found here and in the Galapolos Islands.

This is the first giant tortoise we spotted. As it turned out, he was not very big.

Going ashore.

After we came ashore in our dingy, we strolled up the beach toward the Marine Park.

There is a wonderful walking trail that climbs the hills and comes out at the tortoise farm. We had a wonderful time on the trail seeing all the wildlife and plants.

A Park Ranger pointed out the trail to the turtle farm.

Beginning at Baie Laraie is the trail that goes to Anse St. Joseph, which is on the other side of the island. Visitors walk through dense mangrove forests, which are considered one of the most magnificent sights on the island and past giant granite cliffs. 

These cliffs are scrubbed by the wind and rain and form natural blue and red archways along the coast.

The ruins of the ancient leper colony can be seen in the forest and has almost completely been taken over by vegetation. There is also a rocky trail to the summit of the island. It is not an easy walk and there is not much shade along the way, but the sights are spectacular. That was the route we took.

We were prepared for the rock and hill climb in our best climbing flip flops.

Our group at the beginning of the hike.

We saw mangrove forests, degraded land from fire and the 2004 tsunami, and swamps.

The boardwalk that passes through the mangrove forests near Baie Laraie allows visitors to see seven of the eight species of mangroves on the island. It is accessible even during high tide.

A really big snail.

Thousands of snails.

When we finally reached the tortoise farm, we were all ready for a break. The tortoise move faster than you would think so they did not let us sit around much.

I rounded the corner and emerged from the jungle to see SW facing off a giant tortoise.

DT converses with a sage tortoise.

I think KT was asking if she wanted to race....?

I did not have the courage to get on the ground with the tortoise like DW did. I was afraid I could not get up fast enough if the tortoise deiced to try to nibble on me.

After a full day at the Marine Park, we headed back to the boat. 

During the day, ES attracted some interesting fish to our boat with bread crumbs.

Over dinner we surprised our Captain. We had some shirts made with titles for each of us - just to rib him.  Commandant, Fleet Admiral, Commodore, Admiral, Comandante Supremeo, Admiral Flota, and Captain Eye Candy (for DW).

Our captain.

We wanted a group shot however I thought I was shooting a photo, Unfortunately I had the camera set for video.  So this is rather humorous. If you are reading this in an email, you will need to go to my blog page to view the video.  www.BrendaHyde.blogspot.com

NS attempting to pole dance. Needless to say, it was a fun filled evening.

Another great sunset in paradise.

DW, Hubby D and I all went to bed early because we were going scuba diving the next morning, YIPEE!  Can't wait to show you the great video he took.

Cheers,
Brenda

My New Assignment

At our initial crew meeting (and knot tying lesson) last night, I was given my crew assignment for our upcoming trip to the Seychelles. Eight of us will be spending a week on a catamaran sailing among the 115 Seychelles Islands.

I am very excited because I was named the official boat “Archivist.” Hubby D was assigned the Boatswain. I am still trying to understand what that is (and what the other terms are -- stern, helm, salon, galley -- wait --  I know galley -- food!).

Our captain, SW described my assignment, Archivist was like Frank Hurley’s job on the voyage of the Endurance with Ernest Shackleton.

The Endurance locked in the ice.

Frank Hurley

During that historic journey, Hurley and Shackleton were forced to destroy over 400 glass photo plates. They were only able to preserve 150 of the very best plates to document the journey.

SW charged me with great responsibilities. In our ship orders he wrote, “Just as Frank Hurley was charged with photographing the voyage to preserve the honor of the men on board and to ensure that the National Geographic funding was received, Brenda your task is to serve as the chief Archivist for the voyage, and ensure that appropriate photographs and video will be recorded.

You will do so with appropriate discretion and decency, and you will do so with a meager ration allotment of only two group photos per day, any unused allocation from the day many not be considered a carryover to the successive day. Sunsets and sunrises are free to capture at your sole discretion.”

This sunset was on the Moorings web site. I hope we have one this pretty while we are there.

I spent some time today reading the story of the Endurance. It was amazing. If you enjoy a great sea adventure, it is worth the effort to read.

I am inspired and hope that I can live up to my responsibilities. The Seychelles are beautiful islands so I will have plenty of material to work with. However, I am a bit concerned about the limitations that have been set of only 2 group photos per day.

The captain did not put a limitation on selfies, so maybe I can work around the other limitation.  HUMMMM.

Our selfie from the last catamaran we were on in Greece.

We leave day after tomorrow. Unfortunately we won’t have wifi or internet where we are going. You will have to wait for us to return to find out how well I live up to my assignment.

Here is an overview of the Seychelles from our charter company, The Moorings.

Lying 1,000 miles off Africa’s east coast, between 240 and 600 miles north of the equator in the Indian Ocean, the 115 islands that comprise the Republic of Seychelles are among the most isolated in the world. Arab traders first sailed to the Seychelles around 800 A.D. Phoenician, Polynesian, Chinese, and European explorers followed, but it wasn’t until the 1700s that French colonists settled on the larger islands. Today, the population of the entire country numbers only 84,000, and it represents a rich commingling of French, British, Indian, Middle Eastern, and African culture. The French influence remains prominent; Creole is commonly spoken along with English.

While coral atolls make up most of the 72 low-lying Outer Islands, the majority of the Inner Islands, the largest of which consist of Mahé, Praslin, and La Digue, are geological wonders of twisted granite, mountainous and lush with tropical forests that support species of birds found nowhere else on Earth. Giant tortoises inhabit some of the Seychelles, nesting on the fine, white-sand beaches fronted with exquisitely beautiful coral reefs and azure seas that make a Seychelles sailing vacation unique and enriching.

During June, July and August whale sharks can be spotted in the Seychelles.  If only we could be so lucky, it would definitely check one of my life goal boxes to see a whale shark in the wild. We have two dives set up for the middle of the week. Keep your fingers crossed.

I have to run now. I have to charge all my batteries for my cameras and make sure I have my waterproof casing for the cameras set and ready. And, where did I put that selfie stick? I am so happy the captain did not ban my selfie stick.  I would hate to have a mutiny before we leave the dock.

It is going to be a lot of fun!

Cheers

Brenda

Becoming a Party Animal

Whew! What a day it was yesterday.

The American flag was proudly on display inside the compound.

I have to admit, I had a fun day.

First we had this absolutely unbelievable cook out at DT and KT house and then I attended a Ghagba as a special guest of a good friend from AWA.

It was nearly 3AM when I finally pulled the covers over my head. Then at 6AM hubbie D woke me up so I could fix his breakfast. Now I am busy planning a dinner party for 10 to be held in our flat this evening.

No rest for the wicked.

The Fourth of July is always fun no matter where we are but yesterday was exceptionally fun because we shared our celebration with a group of about 25 American Expats here in Bahrain. You really can not appreciate the freedom you have as an American until you have lived outside the United States.

Sometimes Americans take our freedoms for granted. Most people don't have a fraction of the freedom we enjoy in the States. I am incredibly thankful that I was born an American.

ES cooked the most wonderful brisket. We had steaks, ribs, chicken, wings, hamburgers and hotdogs - I might have missed some - there was soooooo much. It was overwhelming.

We all tried to help the cooks with quality control.

Even those sitting out by the pool were in on the action of sampling off the grill.

There was plenty of action inside as well.

Not to worry, we ate our vegetables, too.

We also celebrated a birthday and a new wedding! It was a great party.

The birthday girl (29 again?) complete with flaming candle.

The newly wed couple.

After the great food and fabulous company, I was off to a Ghabga (party held after Iftar and generally late at night) and fashion show hosted by the International Ladies Association.  The event was under the patronage of Her Highness Shaikha Thajba Bint Salman Alkhalifa Wife of His Excellency Sheikh Salman Bin Abdalla Alkhalifa.

When the invitation arrived I only saw the side written Arabic.  I thought I was in trouble until I happen to turn it over.  Whew!

This was a special Ghabga for ladies only. D shot this quick photo of me all dressed up in my new silk jellaliya and running out the door as the car waited in the drive. I barely made it. However in my defense, the driver was 15 minutes early.

All dressed up running out the door because the car is waiting for me.

The Ghabga started at 9:30 and the Shaikha did not arrive until almost 11:30. The fashion show was wonderful and around 1AM we finally had a bite to eat.

Our group looked lovely.

Our table sign was elegant.

We started the evening with wonderful tea.

The head table with this great lamp. I have got to find one of these to take home.

Lantern decor on the stage.

Fashion runway across from the head table.

Sweets in beautiful containers at the head table.

I thought this was a lantern, but on close review, it held sweets.

R from AWA was also there. 

Our hostess, LAW at our table.

The Shaikha was swarmed when she arrived

The Shaikha walking in - she is the one with the black wrap.

The Shaikha barely made it past our table before she was swarmed again.

As we were waiting for the Shaikha to settled in with her tea and sweets, the hotel started playing loud Arabic music and everyone at our table started swaying along.  It was cute.

If you are reading this blog in an email, you will need to go to my blog page to view this video.  http://brendahyde.blogspot.com

It was another experience to put in my memory book. The camaraderie with fellow Americans made me feel so very "at home." Later the special evening was also very wonderful and I loved all the beautiful dresses.

I would say that this July 4th will go down as one of the more unusual ones for my lifetime.

Cheers,

Brenda

Here is hubby D enjoying his 4th of July hot dog.  He is such the quintessential American.

LW Has Gained His Independence

Guess what?  LW rolled over.

Watch out - he is free!

Maybe not complete independence for LW but a big "roll" in that direction.

His mommy is in trouble now because he is becoming mobile. It will only be a short time before the tummy comes up and the knees start coordinating with his arms and he starts to explore the world.

Once a baby starts becoming mobile your world changes.

When LW's mom, BHB was a baby she would rock back and forth up on her knees. Hubbie D said she looked like she was getting ready to take off.

Of course, once she discovered how to move forward on all fours she did take off and she hasn't stopped moving ever since.

LW is the cutest little guy right now and I love these videos.

If you are reading this blog in an email, unfortunately you will have to go to my blog page to watch the video.  http://brendahyde.blogspot.com

Cheers,
Brenda

LW is wearing his "First Fourth of July" shirt. Mommy and baby are just the cutest couple!